Eurasier Shedding and Grooming

Eurasiers shed twice a year.

Potential Eurasier owners should be aware that these majestic floofs do shed and their coats require some upkeep. Eurasiers shed their undercoat once or twice a year, usually in spring and fall. During these periods, often referred to as blowing their coat, they shed heavily for about three weeks. Brushing them daily during shedding will minimize the “tumbleweave” around the house. In between these shedding periods Eurasiers shed minimally and only require brushing once every couple weeks.

Eurasiers are double-coated.

This means they have two distinct layers of fur. The first layer, known as the undercoat, is fine, fluffy and short, growing close to the skin. This layer is responsible for most of the shedding that pet owners encounter but provides essential insulation, keeping the dog warm in winter and cool in summer. The second layer, called the outer coat or guard hair, is longer and coarser, offering protection against external elements. Unlike the undercoat, guard hairs do not shed.

During warmer months, the undercoat thins out to release body heat while trapping a layer of cool air, preventing overheating. In winter, the undercoat thickens to trap warm air, protecting the dog from frostbite and hypothermia. The top coat is water-resistant year-round, aiding the dog when swimming or exposed to rain and snow. Additionally, in summer, the top coat acts like built-in sunscreen by reflecting sun rays and preventing the dog’s skin from getting sunburned.

Eurasiers should never be shaved.

Trimming excess rear end fluff and sanitary trims at the groomer’s are totally fine but unless your Eurasier is experiencing severe matting, there is no reason for it to be shaved. There are many reasons not to shave a double-coated dog including:

• The Coat Continues to Shed

  Even if you shave down a double-coated dog, they will still shed. Many pet owners mistakenly believe that shaving their double-coated breed will reduce shedding, but this is not the case. The undercoat, which is the primary source of shedding, continues to grow and shed regardless of the coat's length. Shaving only removes the outer layer of guard hairs, which do not shed as much. As a result, the shaved undercoat still sheds, often leading to shorter but more abundant loose hairs scattered around the house. Shaving the coat can stimulate the hair follicle to cause it to produce more undercoat than normal. Additionally, shaving can disrupt the natural shedding cycle.

• Weird Hair Growth Pattern

  The hair of double-coated dogs can grow at different rates. Shaving poses a significant risk of their hair not growing back properly, or growing back in odd patches. Shaving can alter the texture of the coat, making it thicker or thinner than usual. It damages the natural hair growth cycle, which can result in hair taking twice as long to regrow or not growing back at all. This can leave the coat patchy, fuzzy, coarse or stringy, ultimately compromising the dog's natural protection and appearance. They could develop post-clipping alopecia, a condition where a dog's hair takes an unusually long time to regrow after being clipped or shaved. In some cases, the hair may never fully return to its original state, leaving the dog with permanent patches of thin or absent fur.

• Loss of Insulation

  Shaving exposes their skin to sun and heat, which it is not naturally equipped to handle. Without the protection of their coat, their thin skin becomes vulnerable to sunburn and overheating. Double-coated breeds have a natural ability to regulate their body temperature; their coat helps repel excess heat. Shaving them disrupts this temperature regulation, making them more susceptible to heatstroke in hot weather and hypothermia, a potentially dangerous drop in body temperature, in cold weather.

Start grooming your Eurasier as soon as you bring them home.

Begin desensitizing your puppy to each grooming brush and being handled. Take extra care to handle their paws as Eurasiers tend to dislike having their paws touched. Keep it positive and reward them for keeping still. Groom in short sessions so as not to not overwhelm or flood a young puppy. Rather than expecting puppies to “get used to it,” teach them to look forward to grooming with high value treats. A few brush strokes are enough. Stop on a high note and provide special treats during the grooming session. Introduce them to baths slowly. Rushing their first bath at home can create anxiety around baths in the future.

I recommend teaching a “Stand” command to avoid your dog sitting or laying down while you are trying to brush them. If you are planning on using a professional groomer, make sure you take your puppy to be groomed as soon as they are fully vaccinated.

Grooming your Eurasier is easy with the right tools.

I brush my Eurasiers once every other week when they are not actively blowing their coats. It’s important to keep an eye on their coats and make sure they are not matting behind their ears or front legs. I've added links to the tools below to purchase on Amazon. Note that most are Chris Christensen brand and a little more expensive, there are plenty of cheaper options to fit your budget. Do not use a FURminator brush, they are not designed for double-coated dogs and will cut the guard hairs.

• Pin Brush: An all-purpose brush for day-to-day use. This is the brush you grab for small tangles and a few loose hairs. My dogs enjoy this gentle brush, it is a quick option to sleek their coat and make them look civilized.

  
  

• Rake: I always start with the rake brush when I see the first signs of a coat blowing. It will quickly pull the undercoat out from all over the body. This is an all-over brush but be careful not to apply too much downward force.

  
  

• Metal Comb: This is critical for preventing mats behind the ears and legs. It can also be used to break up matting.

  
  

• Slicker Brush: These brushes are great for creating volume and grabbing the loose hairs brought up by the rake. They add the finishing touch to your grooming session fluffing up the tail and mane.

  
  

• Mat Busters: I prefer blunted scissors instead of actual mat cutters. If there is a mat that can’t be brushed out, cutting it vertically will loosen the hair and help detangle it. Honestly, if the matting is bad enough it will be easier to cut the mat out completely. If you aren’t showing a dog there is no reason to tug at their hair and make them uncomfortable.

  
  

• Blending/Thinning Shear: Necessary if you aren’t having a groomer do a sanitary trim. These shears feather the hair so that you can trim their rear end fluff without harsh edges. Careful, they are sharp!

  
  

• Electric Dog Paw Hair Trimmer: A Eurasier’s paw hair can also mat if it gets too long. We refer to them as "Grinch" paws when they get overgrown. I use this very quiet trimmer to lightly go over the tops of their paws and between the paw pads. Trimming between the paw pads helps them keep traction on slippery flooring as well.

  
  

• Nail Clippers: A necessary evil. My dog’s least favorite part of grooming. The light on this pair of clippers won't show the quick on a Eurasier. A Dremel would be even better but my pups hate the sound and vibration.
  

• Deshedding Shampoo: Eurasiers don't need to be bathed too often as their guard hairs protect them from water/mud. The important thing is to use a high quality shampoo that won't dry out their skin.